The Damping System Play "Test & Recognise" by "Seekae (Flume Re-Work)" to see this post. I shall lead or die trying to lead. I won't come back, you all have one chance. This one's my favorite song. This post is my favorite? Nah, Every post is otherwise it wouldn't exist this website. This contraption DOES NOT have anything to do with Commander Keen . The story is pretty much - Got an expensive desk + got a fancy 3D printer -> both didn't like each other and started fighting. So? I stepped in and fixed the fight. Made this damping system to completely stop the desk from wiggling around when the printer violently moved the axis'. My dad got two pieces of Saint Gobain 12mm glass for it. Looked crazy fancy, see the pictures they are amazing. And No, It doesn't affect the printer quality if you calibrate the vibration compensation and make sure ...
"Jôdi Tor Dak Shune Keu Na Ase Tôbe Ekla Chôlo Re"
- Rabindranath Thakur
I know that guy but he died way before I was born. That's why I was born.
A profound man lived in the same street as me. Great guy.
I wanted a drill and a good one. There really wasn’t one that looked great and ran at 20K RPM.
So I made it. Pretty much I didn't manage to make a gaping hole in my hand somehow after using it
for the last 6 months so here we are.
This thing is powerful and with the right grease this one still screams.
The SKF bearings were the right choice. YOU SCREAM, I SCREAM, WE ALL GET ICE CREAM.
Here's the 3D model of the glorious drill. There's a lot of attachments you can use it with.
They all work great!
An Interactive 3D View of The System Assembly
So how does it even work? A motor hooked directly to the wall with wet hands is not the answer,
I am pretty sure of that.
Maybe add a RS385 with two high quality bearings and somehow drill a 2.3mm hole onto the dead
center of a 6mm shaft for a 0.05mm runout. Try that with a bench drill without a bench.
Oh wow that 2.3mm hole was a nightmare. Goddamn. I powered the motor with an AC to DC converter at 12V.
I am going to make a 20V one for 20K RPM soon.
For now, a fixed speed of 10K RPM is great and does the job so well in making angled/straight holes in
aluminum and brass. Below there's a 3D model to show you how it can be used in a Bench drill assembly. I configured a RS-385 motor version of it but I highly recommend you use a RS-545 motor from Mabuchi.
The Hand Tool With Stand
The design of the ball bearing housings was made with the philosophy that the motor goes first,
the housing top screw next, the first ball bearing housing along with support rods next,
the top ball bearing housing next. This way all the parts are still openable for regreasing and
provides adequate support to the ever so slightly bent rod (if ever it is).
In the Stand, the hand tool is attached with a TPU sleeve. That TPU sleeve serves two purposes, first to cut most of the vibrations and noise, second make sure the tool doesn't turn on itself.
This tool was mainly made to be held in hand, using it in the stand is possible but gotta make sure you know your vibrations well.
BTW, I made it because I was royally pissed off by the ones available in the market which didn't allow
me to use 1mm bits and make 1mm holes. EVERY SINGLE TIME, they had a crazy runout, they just don't work.
So in the words of mymechanics,
"I make one."
P.S.(14th Sepr) I used a open type bearing in the lower section and a one side open and one side closed (Z) type bearing on the upper section. Just a little detail I thought I should add.
Scalability?
Yes, you can scale this design from RS380/385 to a 540/555, 755 whatever you find.
It can be scaled to that. Also, all the drill chucks are easily available in most appropriate sizes.
I prefer ER collet chuck with a 775. The bearings, well… just use whatever is appropriate to the sizes
you scale it to. Make sure you buy a branded NTN or SKF bearing. Without a brand you can say hello to
a blown face or even worse a neighbor with a metal bat banging your glass door. Don’t go overboard,
you are not strong enough to hold a 1HP motor in your hand to use this design with.
Manufacturing
Guess who drove a screw driver into his hand trying to figure out how to open the lid of an unknown mechanism?
I DON'T HAVE A BENCHTOP LATHE YET, so I just printed the black bits in High TEMP Resin,
but Engineering Resin worked way better at the end. Otherwise, I highly recommend you use aluminum or brass parts,
they can be easily made in a lathe, just edit them a bit. Yes, you can use CAD to edit parts other people
make to fit your agenda.
Other than the black bits, the rest of the parts were just ordered.
The blue bits are anodized aluminum turned on a lathe somewhere in this world.
Ohh btw, don't forget grease. A LOT OF IT! I used a syringe to inject PTFE Grease inside the hollow space in the bearing housing just because I felt like it.
Below are some of the 3D models of the different parts in exploded views and the possible assemblies you can maybe create with it.
The Internals
"Looking Inside, Does She See Me?"
"No, she does not really see me
'Cause she sees her own reflection"
Too bad, too sad.
Yes Fish Guy, I have become even more rude and ruthless for I have to one day achieve my Goal.
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